Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
